Tirupur’s Shift from Cotton to Synthetics
Tirupur : As the world increasingly embraces fast fashion, the demand for man-made fibres (MMFs) is on the rise. With this in mind, over 70% of people across the world currently wear clothes made from MMFs. “It is still early days,” says Siva Subramaniam, a second-generation manufacturer and exporter of innerwear, T-shirts and sweaters, sitting in his factory office in Tirupur. However, he firmly believes that “this is the way of the future for the industry”.“We should think about the global market and the growth of demand,” says Subramaniam, founder and CEO of Raft Garments.
It has been two years since Raft Garments started using polyester spandex fabric to manufacture underwear, previously using only cotton spandex. The reason: “It resists sweat and is more durable,” he says, displaying some of the new polyester pieces now being produced at his manufacturing unit in Tirupur.
The exporter currently has 85% cotton-based garments and 15% MMF, while the earlier portfolio was entirely cotton-based (100%). In the coming years, Subramaniam intends to increase the share of MMF to 50% as he is betting big on MMF.
He says the domestic market is increasingly favouring synthetics, while also noting that the growth is happening at a steady rate. “Especially in the sports sector, cotton is almost disappearing, and everyone is showing an inclination towards polyester. We cannot always depend on cotton alone and we have to explore new avenues as well. Though it is a small percentage right now, there can be a gradual change with adequate support from the government to develop the sector,” he says.
For those who don’t know, MMF is usually made by chemical processes or by modifying natural fibres, resulting in materials such as polyester, nylon and rayon. With benefits such as durability, ease of care and resistance to wear and tear, these materials are suitable for a variety of applications. Currently, China is the leader in MMF production, with an estimated global market share of 72%. A recent report by the Ministry of Textiles on MMF shows that India’s per capita fibre consumption is 5.5 kg; of this, MMF’s share is 3.1 kg, which is the lowest globally, even lower than Africa. This shows that India has a huge potential to increase its per capita MMF fibre consumption.
The textile industry estimates that India’s MMF textile exports will grow by 75% to reach $11.4 billion in 2030 from around $6.5 billion in 2021-22. However, this is easier said than done. Factors such as raw material cost, quality, capacity and technological advancement make it difficult for Indian exporters to compete with their global counterparts. Tirupur, the knitwear capital of India, is also facing similar challenges as a cluster as it is slowly moving towards the uncharted territories of MMF apparel.
Keeping pace with global demand
Tirupur holds a prominent position globally as a knitwear exporter, catering to the demand of major markets including Europe and the USA. It exports cotton and cotton-blend T-shirts, dresses, sweatshirts and other knitted garments to global markets. Tirupur’s proximity to the major textile hub Coimbatore has also helped it emerge as a globally recognised apparel manufacturing hub.
Challenges
So, what exactly is stopping us from going full throttle in this sector, especially in clusters like Tirupur, which has a bustling textile industry at its core?ET Digital's interactions with exporters in Tirupur revealed that India has not been able to match China's potential in this sector. While some firms have started manufacturing products on MMF, buoyed by the surge in global demand, most continue to be dominated by cotton-based products.
Preparing for the future
Meanwhile, Tirupur exporters are striving to take themselves a notch higher in this sector. Smaller exporters are investing Rs 2-3 crore to gradually make the shift towards MMF. "We have invested Rs 3-4 crore in MMF production. Globally, the market is showing a clear preference for MMF. We want to compete for that share," says Subramanian.
The industry and the government collectively need to step in to make this possible and bring innovation for a cluster that has the capacity and capability to take MMF production to the next level.
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